This year and last year has seen a lot happen on the component side of things. SRAM has become a legitimate player on the road side of components with the release of Red and the redesign of Rival. Shimano released the long awaited redesign of Dura Ace with an electronic shifting version to be out late spring. Not to be out done Campagnolo has come out with an eleven speed versus of their Record and Chorus groups as well as a Super Record Group. Things happen in threes right?

I haven’t gotten a chance to play with any of the Campy groups but I have seen and played with the new Dura Ace 7900 Group. Very neat stuff all around it is hard to know where to start to talk about it. The most obvious change is the overall appearance of the components. Next is the fact that the shifter cables and housing are now internally routed to the bar. A much cleaner look overall and something that will trickle down to a new Ultegra group that Shimano is going to call Ultegra 6700. So with Ultegra SL just recently on the market Shimano will be at it again with Ultegra 6700. Next up in obvious changes are the ergonomics of the Dura Ace, a much more comfortable grip shape for the hoods, flared out shifter blades and new adjustable reach at a Pro Level component group. What is also interesting to learn is that Dura Ace will have a smaller hood then even the new Ultegra. The Shimano folks tell me this will always be the case because they view Ultegra as for the enthusiast and longer distance rider wanting to offer them a larger hood position for comfort. Also for the first time Dura Ace will have a Dura Ace level compact crankset. I’ve haven’t had a chance to ride the Dura Ace so I will hold off from a full review and an opinion. If you have to have one there are plenty of other sites that offer a complete review of the extensive revisions (which I haven’t mentioned them all) to it so I will hold off from an opinion of the functionality and performance. Early reports are strong. I am looking forward to having a chance to ride it enough to give you an opinion.

What I am excited to ride is the Electronic version of the Dura Ace, Dura Ace Di2. I have played with it on a bike in the stand and it is impressive! Shimano Dura Ace Di2 is a huge improvement over the electronic groupo that Mavic had on the market for a short period of time in the early nineties. When I first heard about Di2 the purist in me was thinking “why would you want an electronic shifter?” Check out the photos I took.

Well for starters, how about never missing a shift and a self adjusting front derailleur? The system is light and very weather proof, it held up to the rigors’ of Paris Roubaix. The pricing is not out yet from Shimano but the rumor on the street is the group should run about a thousand dollars more than the new 7900 Dura Ace group. I think the first early adopters of Di2 may very well be the triathletes. I was impressed with the performance of the components the shifting was flawless. Time will tell but I think that electronic shifting is here to stay and will be the shifting method of choice for the future!

Also due out from Shimano will be a revised version of the Flight Deck that will be wireless and Shimano appears to have designed the new Flight Deck and Dura Ace together so they will integrate seamlessly.

Once again Shimano proves why it is in the industry leader and the component manufacturer of choice for riders around the world! I’ll report back as I learn more and have more time under my belt with the new stuff.

Also I just returned from the Park Tools 2009 Tech Summit and got to play with the Dura Ace Di2 electronic gruppo. It isn’t out yet but will be available in several months. I managed to get a few photos of it and have also posted them in my Gallery in the Components section.

Hope everyone is staying warm!

There are several types of trainers. There are wind trainers that rely on wind to create riding resistance, mag trainers which rely on magnetic resistance, fluid trainers which rely on fluid and electronic trainers. There are also rollers which have different methods of resistance.  Trainer technology has come a long way in the last few years and we could spend a long time discussing all of the different trainers available on the market today.

One of my personal favorites is the CycleOps Fluid2 by Saris. CycleOps offers a full range of indoor training products and new for 2009 is a new Pro series line of trainers. Their trainers are assembled right here in the USA in Madison, Wisconsin. The Fluid2 is not new to the line it has been a mainstay of the CycleOps trainer line for years and along the way has received minor upgrades.

When you open the box you’ll need to initially assemble the trainer for the first use which should take you a few minutes. I am sure if you ask your local shop where you purchase the trainer they can help you assemble it.  The trainer also comes with a more durable rear skewer you should use so as not to damage your light weight aluminum skewer.  Also included is a workout DVD;  DVD’s such as these can really add a whole new dimension to your indoor training.

One thing that is not included with the trainer is a riser block to level the front of the bike so that you don’t feel like you are riding down a hill the whole time you are working out on the trainer. This is one accessory I highly recommend that you purchase when you pick up your trainer. They range from approximately $10 to $20. Some other optional accessories to consider are a mat for underneath your trainer to protect the floor perspiration; there is also a bike thong that is available to protect your bike from perspiration. A feature of the bike thong net that I like is the pockets for holding your phone and TV remotes.  When you pick up your trainer you also might want to consider picking up a few more workout videos for your indoor training. Of course a cycle computer that mounts to the rear wheel to record your speed and distance is a valuable tool to provide feedback for your workout.

Setting up the bike in the trainer is easy with the bolt action quick release lever. Once you set the spacing for your bike the first time it is easy to take your bike in and out of the trainer. Applying the resistance unit to the rear wheel is a snap with the quick release lever that Saris added a few years ago replacing the adjusting knob. To ensure you have a stable platform to ride the trainer also has adjustable leveling feet. As all of the Saris trainers the Fluid2 is backed by a lifetime warranty.

There is a lot to like about this trainer and a lot that I like about this trainer. One of the coolest things about this trainer is that it is a very quiet trainer. When riding it you won’t run your house mates out of the house.  One of my friends sets up his Fluid2 up in the living room and he would do his workout while watching a movie with his wife.  This comes from the silicone fluid that CycleOps uses in the resistance unit along with sealed-cartridge bearings to unsure a quiet ride and better inertia just like you are on the open road. While the amount of noise that the trainer produces is important to consider when selecting a trainer there are other features that I think you should consider when selecting your trainer.

I’ve been using a Fluid2 for some time now. It originally was call the Fluid Team Edition because it had a larger fly wheel then their standard fluid trainer. Eventually Saris standardized on the larger flywheel for their fluid trainers added a few features and called it the Fluid2 trainer. The fly wheel is a 2.75 pound individually precision balanced flywheel which offers a smooth ride and ride like inertia when you accelerate and decelerate.

The Fluid2 offers the rider progressive resistance, so the faster your ride the harder it becomes to pedal your bike. The bike will accelerate and decelerate just like you are riding on the road. Of course you can still utilize your gears to increase or decrease the amount of power you are generating on the trainer.

To reduce the wear and tear on your tire the Fluid2 has a larger diameter drum which also gives a smooth ride. Trainers tend to be hard on tires so I highly recommend using a durable tire for your trainer.  Don’t shorten the life of your high end tire, in fact some of the high end tires are not suitable for use on the trainer they can deteriorate from the heat generated by the trainers causing the clue used to hold them together to separate. There are even some trainer specific tires that are available on the market.

I’ve logged a bunch of miles on my Fluid2 trainer and I love it. It is just as quiet as the day that I first rode it.  I am a huge fan of the fluid style trainers they are quiet and do not stir up dust when using them.  My trainer has held up well over the years and is very stable when I get out of the saddle to do a sprint workout. The oversized drum that the wheel rides on does indeed offer a smoother ride and reduces the wear on the rear tire. The progressive resistance works like a champ and has been able to handle everything that I have asked it to. This trainer would be a great addition to your cycling equipment and will help you pass the training hours until the weather outdoors is to your liking.

Please buy local to support your local businesses, workforce and economy.

Saris Web Site

Fluid2 Trainer

It is great that you are thinking about getting your child or children out with you to enjoy cycling. A child seat or child trailers both allow you to bring your kids along for the ride.

This Guide is designed to help you choose which product is the best choice for your family.

Quick Overview:

Child Seats:

Child seats are ideal for use when riding on bike paths at speeds about 10MPH. Child seats are generally rated to 40LBS of weight approximately 1-3 years of age. Often many children get to long for a child seat before they exceed the weight limit of the child seat.

When occupied child seats raise the center of gravity of the bike and thus will affect the way the bike handles. One of the biggest challenges of child seats is getting the child in and out of the seat.  Loading and unloading the child is made easier when you have one person to support the bike while the second person works with the child. Also while the rider gets off the saddle or is dismounting the bike they may find it harder to balance the bicycle. The greater the weight of the child the greater the impact they will have on the bikes stability. In general smaller riders will notice the effect of the additional weight more so then a larger rider. In addition any sudden movements by the children are likely to be noticed by the bicycle rider.

In the case of a crash the child is likely to sustain minor injuries, even with all of the safety features that today’s child seats offer.

When shopping for a child seat, look for one that provides protection for the child’s head and a multiple point retention system for the child.

Some child seats have the option of purchasing a second rack to mount to an additional bike so that you can share the child seat among bikes. This is generally a $30-$50 option.

Child Trailers:

Child trailers will carry up to 2 children or a 100LBS of weight and most provide ample room for the child to bring along their favorite toys, books, food and drink and other items. Many trailers offer storage room behind the child’s seating area so that you can bring along all the stuff that goes with having a child. Each of these features adds enjoyment for both bicycle rider and child and help accommodate longer rides. While all trailers come with a protective cover to keep debris out many child trailers come equipped or offer the option of a two and one cover, where the second cover is plastic to keep the rain out or provide warmth to allow riding in cooler temperatures. Trailers are also designed with airflow in mind to keep the child cool during the warmer months. UV protection is a feature offered in some covers as well.

Trailers generally mount to the bikes rear triangle and have very little affect on how the bike handles. Trailers do require a little more room on the trail or the road because of their width and require a little more room to make a turn however each of these issues are easily adapted to. With child trailers being easy to mount they are easy to share among different bikes even during a ride.

Trailers are usually constructed out of bright covers to increase visibility come with reflective stripping areas to mount flashing lights to and safety flags.

In the case of a crash the child will stay upright because the child trailer hitches are designed to allow the bike to be knocked over or laid down without affecting the trailer itself. For added stability many trailers have the wheels angled in to increase stability.

When shopping for trailers look for one that is well constructed lightweight and easy to fold up for transportation. Some trailer models even offer the option to be converted into a jogging stroller or a stroller.

Child trailers hold a high resale value and overall have a lower cost of ownership then a child seat.

RECOMMEND ACCESSORIES:

Child Seat:

            Helmet

            Flashing light

            Extra rack to mount the child seat on a second bike

Trailer:

            Helmet

            Rearview mirror for bicycle

            Flashing light

            Spare tube or patch kit.

            Jogging attachment if available

Opinions are those of the author – copywrite 2008

Mavic has built some of the world’s best wheels for a long time and their wheels are well loved by cyclists around the world. The R-SYS wheels use carbon tubular spokes on the front and on the non drive side in the rear. The drive side still uses aluminum spokes on the rear.

Check out what Mavic has to say about the R-SYS on their web site below.

So I put several hundred miles on them and came away impressed with them. The wheels accelerate like no other wheels that I have ridden. When you power into your pedal stroke you immediately feel the bike leap forward from your output. The wheels are very stiff and certainly don’t flex in when you corner with them. The wheels are very very responsive and of course smooth like one expect Mavic’s to be. They have the best bearing the industry has to offer. Mavic is so proud of the bearings that you don’t see them talking about ceramic bearings for their wheels.  As I rode the R-SYS more and more I finally noticed the flex that some people had complained about out of the front hub.  This was an issue with the early release wheels that Mavic was aware of and has since rendered a fix for them. I sent our wheels back for the fix but have not had a chance to ride them since. For me I didn’t notice the flex when I first started riding the wheels, because I believe the flex wasn’t there. When I finally got the flex to show it was under extreme load and only while out of the saddle climbing. One of our customers who rode them prior to me who is a larger rider and much stronger then I am notice the movement in the front right from the start. But again as Mavic does they have since remedied the problem.I was very impressed with the wheels until I rode them out in Thurmont. During that ride we did a lot of climbing which the wheels excelled at. Trust me on that day I needed all the help I could get, wheels, compact crankset etc..Where I didn’t like them was on a rough descent they were so stiff that it was not very fun going down the mountain. With the harsher conditions it didn’t dampen the vibration and it transmitted them strait to me. In fairness to the wheels some of it could have been the bike. The Madone 5.2 does not use as much of the high modulus and very high modulus carbon that I am used to riding. I’ll talk about that more when I review the Madone. The wheels were great when I descended with them on smooth roads on the harsher road I was not impressed. So not impressed that I took the wheels off the bike when I got back and placed a set of demo Bontrager wheels we have on them.I do think that for most riders these wheels are hard to beat. If you want a light stiff responsive wheel then these are the wheels for you. They accelerate like a champ. I think they would be ideal for long days of climbing and crit racing. For now I can confidently say they are ideal for midsized riders. If you are on the larger size you might want to test them out before you commit to buying them to make sure the issue with the front hub has been resolved which I am sure it has. If you are on the smaller size you might want to check them out as well to see if they are too stiff for you. For the racing crowd I would find it hard to believe that they could be too stiff for many.I look forward to trying out the wheels now that they are back from Mavic. I’ll do a follow up review after I get some more miles on them.

This is what the Mavic Website says about the wheels:

Introduced one year ago, R-SYS and its revolutionary TraComp technology has been immediately rated as the best wheel ever by pro racers, journalists and every day riders. TraComp technology prevents a loss of tension on spokes to maintain high stiffness under high loads and carbon spokes don’t stretch as much as steel or aluminum ones. Result : the best ratio stiffness/lightness on the market.

Stiff to transform all of your power into pure speed  TracompTM technology prevents loss of tension on spokes to maintain high stiffness under high loads Maximized rear wheel dish increases lateral stiffness  Carbon spokes don’t stretch as much as steel or aluminum which limit wheel distortion Light for instant acceleration Carbon spokes are lighter than their alloy counterpart  Low stress wheels allow extra light rim extrusion and maximized ISM* to reduce inertia. (*ISM : Inter Spoke Milling)

Since I didn’t have my regular bike that I have been riding, a carbon Rush from Cannondale, I took one of our demo bikes.  I choose a Trek Top Fuel 69er in a 17.5. I’ve ridden the 69ers before but it has been a little while. The 69er is a unique bike in the sense that it has a 29 inch from wheel with a 26 inch rear wheel, all on a full suspension platform.

The theory of the 69er is that on the front wheel you get the larger wheel that gives the rider greater ease in riding over things along with the larger contact area that the bigger wheel offers. The 26 inch rear wheel still allows the bike to accelerate a little faster.

Complaints that the 29ers (dual 29 inch wheels)often receive is that it takes more effort to get the 29 inch wheels moving, the up side is that once they get going they roll super fast. I think this characteristic makes the 29 inch wheels better suited for cross country rides and many of the 100 mile mountain bike rides. Many people find that the bigger wheels are harder to manage and control then the 26 inch wheels; making a 29ers better suited for taller riders.

Other benefits of the 29er wheels are they roll over larger objects with greater ease because the axle is higher from the ground then the 26 inch wheels. A neat feature about the 29er platform is that you can easily swap out wheels to a 700c configuration for road riding.

I enjoyed riding the 69er, I love both the front and rear suspension on the bike. Both of these are Fox Shocks a 29er RL100 for the front and an RP2 w/Pro Pedal for the rear. For the drive train the bike is spec’d with SRAM and I love the SRAM components they also happen to be on my Rush. Mechanically I think the bike worked great, it is well spec’d the components work well together and there is a lot of value in the bike.

The handling of the bike is another story. I guess I am a little more old school having been riding mountain bikes for year, I still remember when I worked in a shop and the first Rock Shox came in. I am slowly adjusting to the more upright position the new longer travel bikes offer and the slightly slower handling they have. What I do continue to realize the more time I spend on the mountain bikes that the fit of the mountain bike is just as critical as the fit on your road bike. As I tweaked my position on the bike yesterday I felt more power going to the pedal and greater overall comfort on the bike. I had fun seeing how moving my position on the bike improved comfort and performance.

For me as the day went on I felt like I was slightly “behind” the bike in the handling and steering of it. Another characteristic that I noticed was that on certain size bumps the front wheel would roll over the bumps and the rear of the bike would come up off the ground. As one road the bike more I think you could learn on which bumps you would need to compensate for this. The other issue I had with the bike was that if I wanted to approach a curve at speed I couldn’t hold my line through the turns. This isn’t a characteristic uncommon in many mountain bikes; in fact Fisher came out with a G2 geometry to reduce the trail to improve handling. The G2 is designed to address these handling characteristics at the lower speeds.

For now I will reserve a final judgment on the 69er but have to say I am leaning to believe that the 69er is not the right bike for me. I’d like to ride it a little more before I ruled out the bike once and for all. One thing about the 69er is that I am only 5’ 10” so someone who is taller than myself may have a different opinion of the bike. I have ridden 29er full suspension bikes, the Super Caliber from Fisher, and have been very impressed with the 29er platform.

It is so easy for us to use a reusable bottle for our beverages. Think how much you would be saving the earth and yourself by using a reusable bottle. At our house we use the Camelbak bottles and love them. My wife and I call them our “adult sippy cups”. The Better Bottle is BPA/phthalate free.

Check theme out here. 

If you have to use a plastic bottle do everything you can to get it recycled.

 Hands on Review: Garmin 305By Daniel Sprietzer, Editor Dailyspinnews.com 

Recently I was fortunate enough to have been given a Garmin Edge 305 to review by the Crofton Bike Doctor, and I have to say that I was ecstatic over the opportunity to test it out.  For the last few years, I have tested/ridden with everything from Polar’s to Powertap’s, but this was the first chance I had to test out a cycling GPS unit.

 Set-Up The Garmin 305 system I received was the Edge 305 + cadence (also includes heart rate strap).  Having gotten the 305 home, I immediately began to set it up on my bike, and it was probably one of the easiest bike computers that have ever been installed on my bike.  Like many systems, the Garmin uses a magnet on the crank arm and on the rear wheel spoke.  Unlike many systems, I did not have to fiddle with it for hours trying to get it to read the passing magnet.  The cadence part of the system uses a very simple green light system that allows you to move the magnets past it and see how strong the connection via a little green light that glows brighter with a strong signal.  A few passes and I was read to set up the computer. Having set up several bike computers in the past, I was ready for the daunting task of button mashing and swearing, but again the Garmin was very simple in its set up.  All that was required was to follow the steps, filling out things like my weight, my bike’s weight, etc.  One nice feature was the “auto” determination of my wheel size, which with some systems has been my bane in the past. I also modified what the screen was going to display for information, which did take a bit of electronica know how but again was pretty easy in comparison to some systems.  Finally I installed the bracket to hold the computer on my handlebars and I was ready to roll.  (Again all hardware installation is very easy, but if you have any difficulties be sure to talk to your LBS!) 

On the Road

 After an eternity of waiting for my 305 to connect with the satellites (ok eternity was less than a minute, but I was ready to GO!) I was rolling down the hill from my house (which I learned thanks to the 305 is a -3% grade hill).   While I could go on and on about how many different little tools there are on the 305, I believe it will suffice to say that it is not lacking in providing you with information.  I set mine up to reflect the following; Time, Speed, Grade, Elevation, Heart Rate, Cadence, and Distance.  A few other things you could show are Lap time/distance/speed, Calories, Sunset/Sunrise, and the list goes on and on.  Overall, it took a bit to get used to looking down at the system and learning where my speed vs. my cadence were etc, but again that’s not really the systems fault, just a fact of riding with a computer. 

Ride Analysis

 Having gone out on the first ride, I got home and loaded up the packaged software that the system comes with and downloaded the ride to my computer.  Garmin has two systems in place, a local computer program called the Garmin Training Center and Motion Based which is an online workout/route analyzing system, both of which are free to use.  Overall, the Garmin keeps a nice clean record of my rides and allows me to quickly tally up how many miles, calories, avg speed, avg cadence, etc that I have ridden over the course of a day, week, month or year.  It also allows you to set up workouts that you upload to your Garmin and thus allow you to compete against a “ghost” rider…aka you compete against your last time on the given route.  One really cool feature was when I was out riding and decided to do one of my workout rides about half way through the route, and the Garmin adapted and picked up where I was and placed me into workout, adjusting all the time goals etc to where I was.  Very cool! While Motion Based also allows me to view the same data, its strength comes in a couple of different ways.  First, it has a map player which is tied in with Google Maps that allows you to see your route and watch your ride progression.  Second, it allows you search their databases for routes other riders have uploaded (and left public) and then download them to your Garmin as a ride workout route.  This works out great if you’re a: bored with your current riding/training routes and need something new or b: if your away from your usual stomping grounds, just download a few routes and hit the road wherever you may be.  If you’re in a new area where you don’t know the lay of the land so to speak, just use Google to get directions to get to your new starting point and then start your course on the Garmin and just follow the course arrows.  Simple as that. The last highlight, although a minor feature but a lot of fun, allows you to compare rides with your buddies no matter where they are riding.  I recently “raced” my good friend who lives in the Nashville, TN area over a 20 mile route with approx. 1100 ft of climbing.  After both of us had our routes, we then compared them to each other and compared results (while he beat me in ascending speed, I beat him in pace, avg speed, avg heart rate (zone), and overall time).   So what isn’t so great with the 305?  Well, it doesn’t do anything with power.  So if you want to have a power reading you will have to run a separate system, but beware you may be accused of having a dashboard on your bike or asked where the monitor goes or well you get the idea.  Also the 305 doesn’t have any sort of mapping ability.  While I stand by the view that as a cyclist, I can’t really get lost (since I can just turn around and go back the way I came…) it would be nice to have some sort of mapping system that shows me where I am, especially when I’m out exploring new roads or areas. [Ed. Fortunately the Garmin 605&705 systems will have a basemap system for just that!]  

The Pros:

• Easy set up
• Workout system makes it fun to train
• Lots of ways to view your on deck display to suit your needs
• Calorie formulas take into account everything! (which tends to give very accurate Caloric counts)
• Makes riding solo fun and competitive

 The Cons:

• No live “where the am I” mapping system
• No way to share routes via Google’s turn by turn with non-Garmin users (can be done with third party sites)
• No power training tools (coming with the 705, but still limited in which systems it will work with)

 Overall: The Garmin 305 is a great system for any level of cyclist.  Go out and buy one today!  Thanks to the Crofton Bike Doctor for allowing me to test out this system!

Thelma is a receiver rack that carries up to two bikes.  What I like about Thelma is that the bikes sit on the rack versus hanging from it. This is nothing new in the car rack world but it reduces the height that you need to lift the bikes to get them onto the rack.  

What is great about this rack is that nothing that secures the bike actually touches the frame. An aluminum arm surrounded in plastic comes up and grabs/cups the wheel. Then you use a few ratcheting straps to secure the bike in place. To remove the bike you simply roll it out of the front of the rack and you are all set to go. This clamping method is ideal for carrying women’s bikes as it eliminates the need for a top tube to secure the bike to. 

What brought my attention to Thelma was the weight of the rack. She ways twenty-six pounds compared to around forty pounds for a standard hitch mounted rack. My Mom was complaining about the weight of her existing hitch rack and how it was hard for just her to get her rack on the car. Further making the rack easier to use is that the frame of Thelma is constructed out of aluminum in a U shape. This allows someone to walk in between the rack to load the first bike. No fumbling to work the bike over other parts of the rack to secure the bike. Simply walk up the rack and sit in your bike, secure the straps and you are all set to go. 

When not in use Thelma folds up against the back of the car. When in the folded position it appears that on most cars none of the rack will obstruct the view out of the rear window.  Just don’t forget that Thelma is tagging along when you drive!  

The clamping mechanism of the rack will handle both 26in wheels and 700c wheels but not smaller sizes. I’ve heard unofficially that you can get a 29er wheel to work as well. The down side is that as of right now there is only the option of carrying two bikes. So the rack may not work for everyone.  

Thelma is going to be an ideal rack for someone that doesn’t want to have to lift a bike very high to secure it to a rack. It is light and easy to handle making it easier to handle when it is not on your car. When not mounted the rack is very flat which should make it easy to find a place to store when not in use.  

Thelma is available for both receiver sizes a 1 1/4 and 2 inches and retails for $249.99.

Pedal float is another feature that requires consideration when selecting pedals. By allowing the foot to float in the pedal shoe interface you can reduce the risk of injury to the knee. Here again a fit specialist can assist you in deciding how much float fits your needs best. This will vary by each rider and their pedal characteristic. At the Crofton Bike Doctor we use a device known as a R.A.D to set cleat alignment. The manufactures all manage float in the cleats. Look uses different cleats for different amount of float. They have a zero float cleat, four and half degrees of float and a cleat for nine degrees of float. A neat feature on the new Keo cleats is a device in the center of the cleat that allows users to change to a new cleat and place it in the exact place that the old cleat was. Shimano and Time both have only one cleat. Where Speedplay offers different pedals with different amounts of float. Their original pedal the X series does not have adjustable float but their new pedal the zero has float adjustable between zero and fifteen degrees.

Many riders factor into their pedal purchases the stack height/distance from the center of the pedal spindle and bottom of the shoe. The closer the better, lowers the riders center of gravity a little but more importantly removes areas for power transfer to the pedals to be lost or flex to occur between the pedal shoe and cleat interface. It also reduces the amount of rocking that can occur between the foot and pedal. Time has their RSX platform at an 8mm distance between the pedal spindle and the cleat platform. When looking at these numbers you need factor in what the actual stack height is for the pedal cleat combination.

I leave you with that and come back another time to discuss more about the pedal, shoe foot relationship.